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About me

I’m currently a 31 year old married father of 2. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area but grew up in the mountains near Yosemite. I began rock climbing at the age of 13 at a small local gym that had a climbing wall. After about a year of climbing there, I got offered a job as a belay instructor. And from there I began route setting and continued to work there until I was 16, got a car, and became more interested in girls that in rock climbing. In this three year period I did my best to climb in near by Yosemite but was at the will of my parents and didn’t get out much. I mainly did easy trad climbs in the meadows and around the Sonora Pass, but was fortunate enough to have a few mentors that taught me the skills of anchor building, leading, and route finding.

So fast forward 15 years later and now I found my way back into rock climbing. I work as a firefighter and needed a way to motivate myself to stay in shape. The gym was getting boring and monotonous and a friend of mine climbed at the local gym. So I figured I would join him in climbing a bit and get a workout in at the same time. Well, it only took one route to rekindle my long lost love for climbing and raise my addiction to climbing to a whole new level. Unlike when I was a teenager, I now had more money, a car, and more time to climb… kinda… With my wife supporting my desire to get back on the rock, I began to acquire all the gear that I had recently gotten rid of figuring I would never use it again. Idiot.

10 months later I am roughly back where I left off 15 years ago. I have a full rack, ropes, all kinds of shoes, etc… I have been climbing consistently 3 days a week varying between indoors and out, sport, trad and bouldering. I have reached my all time best of projecting 5.12a/b indoor, 5.11c outdoor. My onsight level is in the upper 5.10 range and have red pointed in the 5.11a range. But the difference between now and 15 years ago is, for one, my obvious age and desire to stay healthy and not get injured and secondly is my desire to train. As a firefighter, training is everything. Its how we learn, get better, and stay on top of all the skills and knowledge that is required for our job. Just like the military, training is how we ensure that we are always ready for anything that comes our way and turns groos motor skills into muscle memory, automatic actions that require little or no thought which is critical in stressful situations. Training is what makes us the best at what we do. This training ethic is a major part of me and hence is now a part of my climbing.

So that is where this blog comes in. My desire to train to be a better climber. I have done much research on this topic and there is quite a bit of information out there on how to train to climb better. But like anything, its hard to tell what works and who dose not. With only a few real studies done, most of the info I found was in various books or on message boards. Much of this information was very helpful, but a lot of it is opinion. And the training ideas and regimens of professional, full time climbers, while helpful, dose not really apply to a 31 year old working father who isn’t climbing every day. So with that said, I wanted to document what training works. Using my training ethic and all the info out there, I am going to try out different training methods and develop a training plan that will be more realistic to us non-professional, recreational rock climbers. By posting my progress for you to read, I hope that my training project will help give others ideas on what might work for them and shed some light on stuff that works for average climbers like me. If anything, I hope you find it enjoyable to read and maybe even provide some motivation to develop a training plan of your own.

Climb on!

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